Scent Travel Report Iran

Rosa Damascena
Roses instead of poppies

Fragrant plant: Damask roses
Growing region: Iran - Lalehzar Mountains
Cultivation partner since: 2016
Special features: Altitude at 3000 m; project “Roses instead of poppies”; in addition to rose oil, hydrosol and dried rosebuds are produced for the domestic and Arab markets; upcycling of distillation waste into rose fuel briquettes.

Day 1: The adventure can begin! For the first time, three generations of Farfalla are setting off on a journey, following the scent of the rose...

Claude Richard, one of the founders of farfalla, is a seasoned expert on olfactory travel. His granddaughter Anae, at two years old, is the youngest member of the family and is experiencing her first olfactory journey with her parents, Malvin and Muriel. Malvin Richard is part of the younger generation at farfalla; he has loved discovering the cultures and plants of foreign lands since childhood. Muriel doesn't work at farfalla, but shares his passion for travel and fragrances. The farfalla family is supported by Lukas Lüscher, a school friend of Malvin's and a member of the marketing team.

Days 2 and 3: Upon arrival, Tehran surprised us with its vibrant colors and warm hospitality. We were touched by how open and curious the people are. Even though the metropolis is hectic, we found true oases in the paradisiacal Persian gardens.

Days 3 and 4 of our ethnobotanical fragrance journey: We leave the hustle and bustle of the big city behind and travel on to the mountains of Kerman. Here lies one of Iran's most important rose-growing regions. Many years ago, the Homayoun family and Shahin Sanati began cultivating Damask roses at an altitude of between 2,000 and 3,000 meters. We meet Shahin Sanati, the sister of the founder of the rose project. She lives in Hamburg, commutes between Germany and Iran several times a year, and is responsible for the project's export activities.

Jean-Claude Richard:

"Wow, what a sight! I've traveled extensively and visited many plant projects, but this valley is truly unique. I'm standing amidst small rose fields in the Lalehzar Valley at 3,000 meters, with snow-capped peaks rising behind me. Here, the snow wind mingles with the fragrance of roses. It's a real model project, both ecologically and from a social perspective. It's all thanks to a visionary who, forty years ago, had the courage to cultivate roses in this valley. Today, it's the largest rose distillery in Iran. I'm impressed. The company is majority-owned by a foundation that also runs two orphanages in the city of Kerman and offers young adults the opportunity to work at the distillery."

Day 5 of our ethnobotanical fragrance journey: We arrive at the rose fields with the pickers in the morning dew, the chill of the night still lingering on the ground. Up here, we feel the isolation from industry, traffic, and environmental toxins. The roses growing at 3,000 meters are truly organic. Beyond the organic aspect, we are also impressed by the cooperative's other initiatives: the motto "Roses instead of poppies," which guarantees farmers a legal and secure income, and the upcycling of distillation waste into rose briquettes. Now the hand-picked blossoms must be transported to the distillery as quickly as possible – the pickers use donkeys, mopeds, and cars to transport their 20-kg sacks to the measuring station.

Days 6 and 7: We bid farewell to the rose fields in Kerman; our journey is slowly drawing to a close. We haggle over carpet prices in Isfahan and enjoy refreshing relaxation with a "feet bath," as the youngest in our group would say. In the evening, local families gather at Naqsh-e Jahan Square to wind down the day.

Malvin Richard:

"I will never forget the scene on the magnificent Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan, the second largest square in the world, which fills up in the evening with families enjoying their well-deserved dinner – it is Ramadan – as a picnic. Slowly, the delicate scent of roses, coming from the nearby rose gardens and the perfumes of the women, mingles with the smoke of the shishas and combines to create a breathtaking fragrance."