Scent Travel Report Italy
Bergamot
Location advantage: View of Mount Etna
Fragrant plant: Bergamot
Growing region: Italy, Calabria
Cultivation partner since: 2013
Special features: Traditional growing region in Calabria, passion for organic farming, modern spirit and correspondingly modern facilities.
To maintain long-term partnerships with plant growers, to get to know countries, people and cultures, and also to establish friendly contacts, fragrance tours have always been part of the company culture at farfalla.
Of course, during our visits we also want to ensure that all producers meet our high standards. Our fragrance journey to Italy was first and foremost a delightful highlight: after all, bergamot essential oil is one of our absolute favorites.
Visually, the capricious bergamot is hardly distinguishable from its beloved cousin, the lemon. However, those wishing to enjoy the bergamot fruit on its own should be warned of its bitter taste: its beauty lies not within, but in the peel. For it is from this peel that the famous (Earl Grey Tea!), the legendary (Eau de Cologne 4711!), and the magnificent essential oil are distilled.
After a sweltering summer, late autumn beckons us to Calabria, where bergamots, considered the queen of citrus fruits here, are harvested from November onwards. Indeed, bergamot is a very special fruit that only grows under exceptional conditions.
The Calabrians claim that it only thrives in places from which Mount Etna can be seen.
And indeed – a glance at a map of the growing areas confirms this rumor. Bergamot trees grow almost exclusively on a 150 km long strip of land along the Ionian coast, stretching from Villa Giovanni to Monasterace in the province of Reggio Calabria. Attempts have been made to cultivate them in many other locations (in Brazil, Israel, Australia, even South Africa), sometimes with success. However, the essential oil never reaches its original richness of approximately 350 chemical components there – and the quality of its fragrance suffers considerably from this loss. As we walk through the magnificent bergamot grove of our cultivation partner, with snow-capped Mount Etna in view and a salty sea breeze on our lips, we feel the special nature of this microclimate. The farmer, Giorgio, explains that this tree prefers alluvial and clay soils, which are particularly rich in mineral salts. It cannot tolerate temperature shocks at all. The constant sea breezes help prevent fungal infections. And sun, sun, sun.
The botanical origins of bergamot are a mystery and the subject of countless stories: some scientific theories claim it came from China, others from Barbados (like its "cousin," the grapefruit), still others point to Greece, Spain, the Canary Islands... We only know that this species was described relatively late, not until the end of the 17th century, and that the first bergamot plantations, "bergamotteti," were established in the middle of the following century. The production of the "golden fruit" was almost exclusively dedicated to the manufacture of Eau de Cologne, in which bergamot is one of the main ingredients. The invention of Earl Grey tea, according to unsubstantiated legend, was a work of chance: during a storm at sea, the ship's cargo, consisting of bergamot oil and tea, was so jumbled that the oil spilled onto the black tea. Upon arrival in London, Lord Grey ordered that the contaminated tea be tasted before being discarded...
Back to Calabria: During our visit, we notice how deeply ingrained the scent is in everyday life here. For Calabrians, it's a simple guarantee for a good mood. Giorgio tells us that his grandfather taught him to always carry a piece of bergamot in his pocket – whether he was working in the fields or on his day off. Smelling it from time to time improves his mood and his productivity. Scientifically confirmed: Bergamot essential oil contains many active ingredients, some of which reduce feelings of stress and anxiety.
Besides its positive effects on the soul, bergamot is also valued for its physical benefits. The workers responsible for harvesting and processing the fruit experience this every day: minor injuries almost never lead to problems like infections, and they also observe an accelerated healing process. It's no wonder that bergamot has also found its way into folk medicine.
In the hall where the essential oil is extracted from the ripe fruits, the intense, fruity, spicy-sweet scent embraces us like a generous Italian "Mamma".
Here, as with all citrus fruits, the essential oil is extracted from the peel using a cold-pressing process. The machine resembles a gigantic orange press. The initial extraction of Citrus bergamia is achieved by manually pressing the fruit; the oil is absorbed by a natural sponge. We can now imagine how much work is required to obtain one kilogram of the essence – approximately 200 kg of fruit are needed.
All bergamot producers are working hard to preserve the plant, which was once the backbone of their economy. "In the past, you could buy a Fiat 500 with two liters of the essence, estimate the value of your next gift for your wife with a glance at the blossoming tree, or dream of beautifying your property."
The chemical industry sealed its fate, but people are fighting to revive bergamot cultivation. And Italy wouldn't be Italy if its culinary traditions didn't also play a part in this endeavor. After all, bergamot still wins us over as a delicacy, transformed into biscotti, cakes, marmalade, and brandy – Italy without divinely good food, Calabria without bergamot – unimaginable!
